Common gooseberry sawfly (Latin name – Nematus ribesii) is the most common pest of
gooseberries. The larvae of the gooseberry sawfly strip the leaves of
gooseberry and red & white currant bushes anytime between May and September.
The pale green caterpillar-like larvae are about 2cm long, with black
spots and black heads.
The female gooseberry sawfly lay eggs on the underside of leaves low
down in the centre of the bush, so the young larvae are not noticed
until they have eaten their way to the edge of the bush. The affected
plants have hardly any leaves left, become weak, and are not able to
produce a good crop of fruit in the following year.
Control
It is important to inspect bushes regularly from mid-April, to look for
the sawfly larvae. If they are seen pick them off by hand.
Suitable insecticides can be used on the young larvae. Always read the
label and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
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The winter cabbage plants, an F1 hybrid Celtic, have been taken out of the brassica plant-bed
where they were sown, and planted out into the main brassica bed.
brassica-plant-bed
It is slightly on the late side and the plants are a bit big, so they
will have to be watered well and given extra tlc. The winter cabbage
were planted in rows 45cm apart, & 40 cm apart within the row. The
winter cabbage have been given more space than the summer cabbage so
they can produce bigger heads.
winter-cabbage-plant
The whole of the brassica bed is covered with a micromesh to keep the
cabbage white butterfly and aphids off. Some people place empty
eggshells on sticks, to frighten the cabbage white butterflies away. A
net is a big investment, but it does ensure 100% return on effort, by
keeping the pests out.
The net also keeps the pigeons off, which can reap havoc on young plants
in a few hours.
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The early strawberry variety Honeoye is about 6 days ahead of Elsanta.
This is their third year, and they are cropping heavily. We just need
some warm sun.
ripening-strawberries1
gooseberries-on-bush
Most people pick gooseberries for cooking when they have reached full size, but are
not fully ripe. Desert gooseberries change to a pinky colour and become
quite soft.
carrot-bed
The carrot row is a bit gappy, probably due to irregular watering. This is
the excuse for investing in a misting system! More on that when it arrives.
The carrots have started to grow well, as are the onions.
growing-onions
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We all learn so much from each other, particularly in the gardening world.
* One of the main benefits of having an allotment, is experiencing
the community that goes with it. Sharing knowledge, unwanted
seedlings or spare time helps the giver and the receiver.
* The gardening forums on the internet have a huge readership, and
log a mountain of useful facts.
* Now vegetable growing blogs are increasing all over the world.
Prims Place in Spring Valley is a blog set up in 2004, based in W. Pennsylvania USA. What a surprise to see their post thanking TopVeg for information on growing shallots
from seed. Vegetable growing blogs allow us to share ideas, and there are many
techniques that we can learn from our friends overseas, whether they are
growing veg in similar conditions or not.
They also remind us that we are all human – have a wonderful wedding
day, on 07/07/07, ‘daughter of Prims Place’.
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Rhubarb is really a spring crop. When the stalks are no longer fat and
juicy, but grow as thin stalks, the time has come to give it a rest.
Rhubarb can be pulled all summer if it is growing vigorously, and if at
least 25% of the stalks are left on the plant.
The rhubarb plant should be kept weed free, so that it can grow and feed
its roots. All damaged and discoloured leaves should be removed with
their stalks.
In the autumn, rhubarb appreciates a good covering of well rotted farm
yard manure.
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Tomato Virus Diseases
Greenhouse tomatoes are suffering from virus diseases this year.
*The four most common virus diseases affecting tomatoes are:
* Tomato Mosaic Virus (TMV)
* Cucumber Mosaic Virus (CMV)
* Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV)
* Pepino Mosaic (PM)
*Symptoms on leaves:
* light green or yellowish mosaic patches – caused by TMV or CMV
* poorly formed leaf blades, with prominent midribs, resembling
ferns – CMV
* leaves have long, brown streaks which shrivel – TMV
* young leaves curl downwards, turn bronze, & plant stops growing – TSWV
* leaves have a bubbly, mosaic surface, and plant growth is stunted
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