Celtic Cabbage in the Vegetable Garden.

Posted by TopVeg - August 21st, 2007

celtic-cabbage The F1 Celtic winter cabbage, planted out in June, is growing fast. The Celtic  cabbage produces a rock hard ball which is  capable of standing for months without splitting. This is important when growing in the garden for a family, because it is difficult to have a harvesting programme which gives fresh veg every day.

celtic-cabbage-under-enviro

The cabbage plants have been covered with a tunnel of enviromesh, which has kept the aphids and cabbage white butterflies off the cabbage, so they have remained clean.

When to Harvest Aubergines / Eggplants.

Posted by TopVeg - August 21st, 2007

Knowing the right time to harvest aubergines (eggplants) is tricky.

The right time to harvest aubergines/eggplants is:

  • when the fruits change colour
  • swell to a reasonable size
  • the skin is still shiny.

Pick aubergines:

  • as soon as they reach a usable size
  • when the fruit is firm
  • when the skin is shiny
  • when the aubergine is fully coloured
  • in late August to September

Aubergines taste better when young and the skin is glossy. Do not leave the aubergines on the plant too long. Once the skin turns dull they are past their best.

To harvest aubergines/eggplants:

  • Cut the fruit off the stem with a sharp knife, to avoid damaging the plant.

Adequate light is vital for a successful aubergine crop.

Fruit production is dependent on light quality so dull summers usually mean a poor crop. To improve light penetration remove the leaves surrounding the fruits as they develop. This will improve their growth and help ripening.

Woodpecker in the Vegetable Garden.

Posted by TopVeg - August 20th, 2007

One of the many advantages of vegetable gardening is watching the birds. This greater spotted woodpecker (latin name - Dendrocopos major) was busy on the bird table, whilst we were busy weeding in the vegetable garden.

Click this link to see the woodpecker’s nesting hole.

Cabbage whitefly (Aleyrodes proletella).

Posted by TopVeg - August 19th, 2007

Cabbage whitefly (latin name - Aleyrodes proletella) is a nuisance when it attacks brassicas in the vegetable garden, particularly brussel sprouts. But cabbage whitefly can be a problem on all leafy brassicas, including cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, calabrese, brussel sprouts and kale.

The cabbage whitefly is different from the whitefly found in greenhouses. Cabbage whitefly only attacks brassicas.

white-fly-nymphsThe cabbage whitefly lay eggs on the underside of the brassica leaves. The eggs hatch into tiny, colourless nymphs which suck the sap from the underside of the leaf.

The whiteflies hatch out and are noticeable as clouds of small, flying, white flies when the leaves are disturbed.

cabbage-white-flyThe whiteflies & nymphs suck the sap from the leaves and excrete honeydew which is a sugary substance. This sugary excretion encourages black moulds to grow. So the leaves of the brassicas develop sooty spots under them. It is these sooty moulds which cause the problem, particularly on brussel sprout buttons. They can make the sprouts unusable when there is a severe attack. It is not so important in cabbages, when any sooty outside leaves can be peeled off before use.

Apart from the sooty moulds which appear on the brassicas as a consequence of the cabbage whitefly, the plants do not seem to be weakened by the cabbage whitefly.

Biological control of cabbage whitefly is by:

  • washing the leaves with a soapy solution.
  • Pyrethrum, an organic pesticide, can be sprayed on to the lower leaf surfaces.
  • Various predators eat cabbage whitefly, such as the predator wasp Encarsia formosa which can be purchased from garden centers.

Chemical sprays are available to control cabbage whitefly. Always follow the instructions on the packet.

Four-season Harvest: Organic Vegetables from Your Home Garden All Year Long

Stake Brussel Sprout Plants in the Vegetable Garden.

Posted by TopVeg - August 18th, 2007

support-brussel-sproutBrussel sprout plants have grown so well that they have been staked to give them support. The large leaves become very heavy after a rain, and the plants can topple over in a wind. Any movement of the stalk will lift the roots and destroy some smaller root hairs.

So, loosely tying the stalks to a stake will reduce rocking of the leaf canopy, and preserve tie-brussel-sproutthe root system underground. If the soil is loose, the roots can be firmed in by heeling it down. More soil can be put to them if necessary.

staking-sprouts

Podding Broad Beans from the Garden.

Posted by TopVeg - August 16th, 2007

Broad beans are producing healthy, long pods in the vegetable garden. Podding the beans is a quick job.

pod-broad-beans

The two varieties (Bunyards Exhibition and Imperial Green Longpod) harvested are different colours, giving an interesting combination.

Scarlet Runner Beans in the Garden.

Posted by TopVeg - August 16th, 2007

The brilliant, scarlet flowers of the runner bean plants, with the dark green background of the leaves, make a great picture in the vegetable garden.

runner-bean-flowers

They also make excellent patio plants when grown in containers because of the scarlet flowers, as well as the vegetables they produce.

scarlet-runner-flowers

  • Water in dry weather so the flowers are able to set fruit.
  • Keep the runner beans well picked. If beans are left on the vine to mature, flower production will be suppressed and no more runner beans will be produced.
  • Give the inevitable surplus beans away, so that more beans are produced

Plant Spring Cabbage in the Vegetable Garden.

Posted by TopVeg - August 15th, 2007

Mid-July and August is a good time to sow Spring Cabbage in the vegetable garden for harvest next April or May.

Spring Cabbage seed should be planted 0.5cm deep in a seed bed or trays of seed compost. The seed bed should be kept moist.

In 5 or 6 weeks the spring cabbage plants will be strong enough to transplant to their final positions. Cabbages like a deeply dug, well cultivated soil. Firm the plants well into the ground and water well until they are established.

The Spring Cabbage will be produce good firm hearts ready for harvest in April and May. The cabbages can also be cut as Spring Greens earlier in the year.

TopVeg is growing the variety Offenham 2 - Flower of Spring.

National Allotment Week - August 13-19 2007

Posted by TopVeg - August 13th, 2007

Today is the start of National Allotment Week which runs from August 13th - 19th 2007. National Allotment Gardens Trust organisers of the event, say it is:

“A week to promote the awareness and availability of allotments both locally and nationally and to show the public and the local authorities the strength of support and interest for the heritage of allotment culture.”

The initiative will

  • promote the social benefits of allotment gardening, including benefits to health, education and community well-being.
  • highlight the benefits of allotment gardening to councils across the UK
  • promote gardening, vegetable-growing and consumption as a healthy pursuit and lifestyle.

The Allotment Keeper's Handbook: A Down-to-earth Guide to Growing Your Own Food

Weed the Vegetable Garden.

Posted by TopVeg - August 12th, 2007

Weeds have started to grow in the vegetable garden, and they have to be dealt with before they seed.  This will pay dividends in the vegetable garden next year.

A weed-free vegetable garden is a healthy garden.

  • Air is able to circulate freely around the vegetables, which helps the battle against fungal diseases, such as blight and mildew.
  • Insects will not be able to hide on weeds, and the gardener is more in control of the plot if the crops are not obscured by weeds.
  • Water is used more efficiently if there are only crops, and no weeds to take up the water.

Handpulling weeds is sometimes easier than hoeing at this time of year.  It depends on how loose the soil is.

Although this is the time for harvesting vegetables in the garden, it is well worth putting time aside to get rid of the weeds.

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