How to Grow Tomatoes in the UK
This ‘How to Grow Tomatoes’ guide shows that tomatoes are easy to grow but require daily attention.
Sowing Tomato Seeds
- sow tomato seeds from January to late April in small pots or seed trays
- use seed compost
- water compost & allow to drain for 15 minutes
- sow tomato seeds 2.5cm (1in) apart, ½ - 1cm (¼ - ½in) deep
- place containers on warm windowsill or in a heated propagator or greenhouse
- when tomato seedlings are large enough to handle, plant into individual 8cm (3in) pots filled with potting compost
Planting Tomatoes
- plant into their final position when the plants are 12–15cm (4–5in) tall
- planting depth is up to the first pair of leaves
- planting distance - one large bush or vine tomato per 30cm (12in) pot
or three cherry or trailing tomato plants per 30cm (12in)pot
- use a rich compost mix, & fill pot to 1cm (½in) below the rim
- water the compost gently
- support tall plants with cane and string
Looking after tomatoes
- place plants in a sunny, sheltered position, in greenhouse or conservatory
- water daily to keep the compost moist, but not waterlogged
- remove side shoots of vine tomatoes to keep a single stem (do not remove flower buds!)
- feed with tomato food when the plants start to flower
Harvest tomatoes
- when the colour is fully developed on the tomato
- pick the tomatoes regularly
Click the link for more information on the different types of tomato.
Following the ‘How to Grow Tomatoes’ Guide will ensure a good crop of home-grown tomatoes
Thanks for the tips. I have never pinched the side shoots or tops off, being a lazy gardener. Why should I do this, we have a long growing season here in TN. Will the plant produce more tomatoes? Our plants get huge, all in the ground outside, and we use large cages. Would stakes be better with the pinching? Always ready to try something new,
Frances at Faire Garden
Comment by Frances - March 6, 2008 11:52 am
Hi Frances
No, please don’t change your methods - it sounds as though you do very well with your ‘huge tomatoes’in Tennessee!
In the UK we do not get such warm summers, and grow most of our tomatoes in a green house under glass. The traditional way is to use cordons, with one stalk, so that the plants put all their energy into producing 5 good trusses.
It sounds as though your tomato plants are bush tomatoes, which just get on with their own thing, within your cages.
I will change the title of the post to avoid confusion! Thanks for your comments
TopVeg
Comment by TopVeg - March 6, 2008 12:27 pm
Hi Top Veg! My tomatoes from seeds are about 6 inches tall now. I have a variety from Sweet 100’s, Sweet Baby Girl and Balcony Tomatoes. I have pulled the “suckers” off of the stems but do you pull ALL of the leaves? When I replanted from seedling pots to “big boy” pots I cut off the bottom leaves and “planted deep”. Curious of your trimming process!
Comment by Deb - March 9, 2008 6:16 pm
Hi Deb
Sounds like you have got off to a good start!
Bush types require no shoot removal, but cordon types do.
The side shoots are little shoots that grow between the stem of the plant and the main leaves. These shoots should be pinched out, or cut out.
Don’t confuse these with the shoots that don’t have leaves, as these are the shoots that produce flowers & fruit.
Have a look at this post about plants looking after tomato plants:
http://topveg.com/2007/06/27/looking-after-tomato-plants
Comment by TopVeg - March 10, 2008 9:54 am
Hi
Ive just moved to a new house and inherited some tomato plants from the previous owners as a welcome gift! I would really like to have a go with growing them myself. As they are seedlings in little pots and I have no greenhouse, not sure how is the best way to grow them. I have 6 plants: organic heirloom striped cherry tomato plant, pink accordian, a moneymaker, a Costoluto fiorentino, tigerlla and redpear.
The previous owners had a huge greenhouse (which they took with them) and were keen gardeners. I was thinking of putting them in pots in a PVC greenhouse? Would that be ok? Wehave a large south facing so they will get plenty of sunshine when it does finally turn sunny!
Any tips on how I give them a proper start would be apreciated!
Thanks
Comment by Jennifer - March 23, 2008 8:33 pm
Hi Jennifer
What a great selection of tomatoes!
Your south facing aspect sounds ideal. If you have room in the house, tomatoes do well in very light rooms. Or, if you are in a warm, sheltered spot they will grow outside. But a plastic green house would be really do the job.
Different types of tomatoes grow in different ways, as described in the following post http://topveg.com/2007/04/08/types-of-tomato/
Using gropots makes watering easier, if you are short of time. http://topveg.com/2007/05/13/planting-alicante-tomatoes/
Good luck and enjoy your tomatoes!
TopVeg
Comment by TopVeg - March 24, 2008 8:24 am
Hi, we’ve just bought our first house and I’m currently attempting to grow tomatoes for the summer. We have no garden but a large enclosed driveway. I’m growing some red cherry tomatoes (regular upright variety) and some tommy trailing yellow cherry tomatoes and was wondering how much they will trail - i.e. how high does the pot have to be? And am I OK treating them in the same way I would an upright plant?
Cheers!
Comment by Yvonne - March 27, 2008 12:07 pm
hi
are tomatoes best grown in pots or troughs or other
thanks
stewart
Comment by stewart - March 30, 2008 7:02 am
Hi Stewart
Tomatoes need a large container- so a big pot or a long, deep trough is OK. Many growers use growbags, with 3 tomato plants per bag.
Growpots are a luxury, which help with the watering.
http://topveg.com/2007/05/13/planting-alicante-tomatoes/
Hope that helps
TopVeg
Comment by TopVeg - March 30, 2008 7:05 pm
Yvonne
Bush type (trailing) tomatoes generally grow 30 – 40cm tall and about 60cm wide, give or take. In general terms these plants require a 30cm container, it can be raised on blocks if preferred to prevent the plant from trailing on the ground.
Do not pinch the shoots out, as you would with an upright plant. Just let the trailing plants have their head, and branch out as they want.
Good luck in the new house!
TopVeg
Comment by TopVeg - March 31, 2008 3:37 pm
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Hi,I was wondering if you can help. I am growing cherry tomatoes for the first time and they are now about 20cm tall. I read that I needed to remove the sideshoots and have done. However now I think I could have removed the first ‘trusses’ that had appeared. Instead I believe from your advice I should have removed the sideshoots with leaves on only. Will more side trusses grow or have I ruined the plants. I would be so sad if I have :O(
Comment by Claire - June 16, 2008 4:22 pm
Hi Claire
The little side shoots that grow between the stem of the plant and the main leaves, are the ones to be removed.
Don’t confuse these with the shoots that don’t have leaves, as these are the shoots that produce flowers & fruit.
More info at http://topveg.com/2007/06/27/looking-after-tomato-plants/
If you have removed the flowering shoots, don’t worry, as more will appear as the main stem lengthens.
Comment by TopVeg - June 16, 2008 7:29 pm
Hi,
I’m growing a variety of toms in a long thin greenhouse using buckets (orange ones from B&Q for 99p)- I’ve drilled a load of holes in the bottom for drainage and water daily.
I’ve got good strong stalks and trusses are just starting to flower - I’m about to pinch the tops off as they’ve hit the roof at five foot.
I’ve noticed that three of the plants (all beside each other) have developed white spots on their leaves. These are only a few mill accross and mainly on the larger leaves toward the bottom of the plants.
Have they caught something or am I over watering? I keep the soil moist and have a tomatoe food liquid in the watering can once a week.
I’m just wondering if they’re getting too much or if they’re water logged in the bottom of the buckets and the holes aren’t big enough?
Any thoughts?
Darrin.
Comment by Darrin - July 7, 2008 6:54 pm
Hi Darrin
Your tomatoes seem to be doing very well!
Keep an eye on the white spots and take a look at the whole plant - to see if it looks bright & healthy.
The lower leaves on tomato plants do naturally senesce (die off)- so it could be just that.
Take a close look at the white spot to see if it looks like a fungus mould, look underneath as well.
Are you following the instructions on the food bottle? Make sure they are getting enough.
It is difficult to comment on the watering - the plants need regular watering so they are kept moist - but should not be waterlogged. If the water can get away from all your holes in the bottom, they should be OK.
I would carry on as you are, as they sound to be doing well, but keep an eye on them to make sure the plants don’t start going down hill.
Let us know how you get on
TopVeg
Comment by TopVeg - July 8, 2008 11:25 am
Thanks for that, it’s put my mind at ease.
I’ll let you know hoowthey get on.
Darrin.
Comment by Darrin - July 8, 2008 6:52 pm
Hi,
I’m growing one cherry tomato plant in my conservatory.It now has several green tomatoes on it, but the leaves have started to curl and turn yellow at the edges. Is it dying? I am watering and feeding it regularly (every day)and trying to ensure that it is neither waterlogged nor dry.I removed quite a number of the yellow leaves yesterday, but am now wondering if I’ve done the right thing
Comment by Hilary - July 15, 2008 6:53 am
Hi Hilary
I am wondering if your cherry tomato is getting sunburnt? Does it get a lot of sunlight coming through the glass? But you have told us that the conservatory is north facing, so that rules out the sun.
It is normal for the leaves below the developing fruit trusses to yellow, and these can be removed. The lower leaves on tomato plants do naturally senesce (die off)- so it could be just that.
TopVeg
Comment by TopVeg - July 15, 2008 8:26 am
Hi TopVeg great blog
I have a great crop maturing nicely. the trouble is that they will be left untendered, by me any way, for about two weeks. they are still dark green and just a little time awat from starting to turn. can i crop them so that they turn slower and just ripen in a couple of weeks.. i don’t want to waste them.
luigi
Comment by Luigi - August 11, 2008 7:19 am
Hi Luigi
What a dilemma! You can pick the largest fruits off each truss and leave them in the house - out of the sun, in a light,cool place. They should ripen OK.
Leave the smaller ones on the truss, because they will just shrivel if you pick them.
Congratulations on growing such a great crop. It is a shame to abandon them - because they will die without water for two weeks, if in a pot or the greenhouse.
If you can’t find anyone to come in & water them - could you take the pots to someone who would water them?
Let us know if the picked ones taste good when you return!
Comment by TopVeg - August 11, 2008 12:39 pm
At long last I have a greenhouse and am growing tomatoes for the first time. I have Sungold, Ailsa Craig and Marmande varieties. The sungold are ripening and delicious, but despite a good crop the others are still showing no sign of ripening. Am I doing something wrong and is there anything I can do to encourage them to ripen?
Comment by jenny jackson - August 22, 2008 8:18 am
Hi Jenny
They will get there in the end! They always taste better ripened on the vine.
Take off most of the leaves on your plants, starting from the bottom & working up. This will stress the plants & force them into ripening the fruits faster.
Also it allows more sunshine onto the tomato fruits.
HTH!
Comment by TopVeg - August 22, 2008 10:36 am
Hi TopVeg, Sorry I didn’t greet you last time. Not only am I growing tomatoes for the first time, I’m also blogging for the first time as well and on a steep learning curve for both! Thank you so much for your advice I’m off to the greenhouse, knife in hand, immediately.
Comment by jenny jackson - August 22, 2008 12:57 pm
Hi Jenny
Let us know how the tomatoes do!
Good luck
Comment by TopVeg - August 22, 2008 4:33 pm
Your suggestion was spot on.
I returned to three toms just turning and put them in the fridge… we tasted they were fresh as a daisy.
the others are just coming around now.
thanks for your help
luigi
Comment by TopVeg - September 2, 2008 10:52 pm
Hello TopVeg,
I am in my fifth year growing tomatoes in an (unheated) greenhouse. I sow seed in a propagator at the beginning of April and they usually crop mid-August or about now this year, due to lack of sun in August. I have tried many varieties, from Gardeners Delight, Alicante through to Plum and Beefsteak type. Unfortunately the results are always the same, the plants crop copiously, but the fruits (although ripe)are mushy and never crisp. Any ideas what is wrong? I use rainwater & special tomato feed. Many thanks, Richard.
Comment by Richard - September 4, 2008 7:27 pm
I live in Manchester. Don’t have a greenhouse. It’s v damp here. I’ve been preventing the black mould on my plants using anti-bacterial washing up liquid in a mister. But you need to get in early.
Comment by Darren Carter - September 5, 2008 2:22 am
Darren
Thanks for that tip. These humid days are ideal for mould.
Comment by TopVeg - September 5, 2008 1:55 pm
Richard - this is a difficult one! As you are getting copious amounts of fruit, I wonder if you are overdoing it?
Tomatoes do not reward excessive care!
Your problems could be due to:
temperature - high temperatures accelerate softening process
fertiliser - too much nitrogen causes puffy fruit
too little potassium leads to ripening problems, soft or mushy fruit texture, low acidity and puffiness
over-watering causes sloppy tomatoes with little taste
Comment by TopVeg - September 5, 2008 10:08 pm
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