TopVeg – growing veg,fruit&herbs

January 31, 2009

How to Chit Seed Potatoes

Filed under: potato — Tags: , , , — TopVeg @ 12:42 pm

How to Chit Seed Potatoes

  • Place the seed  in an egg tray.
    The scar-side (point where the tuber was attached to parent plant) down, with rose uppermost.

pot-chit-7day
pot-chit-7day
  • The majority of eyes (buds) will be around the rose, and so pointing upwards.
  • Place the tray is on a north-facing, light, frost free window sill.
  • The chits (shoots) need to grow slowly.
  • The light keeps the shoots short, fat and green.
  • 4 degrees Celsius is ideal, but the temperature should not go above 10 degrees, neither should it reach freezing.



Potato Chits

Filed under: potato — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 12:32 pm

Potato Chits

  • When potatoes open their eyes and start to grow the small shoots produced are called chits. Sometimes gardeners encourage the growth of these chits by a process known as chitting, because planting a chitted potato reduces the time between planting and harvest.

MarisBard-potato-chit-day20

MarisBard-potato-chit-day20

  • Chits are the sprouting shoots that grow out of the eyes of a potato.

  • The small stems are called chits.

  • They are kept cool so they grow slowly

  • This makes them plump and strong

  • The light makes them green

MarisBard-potato-chit-day20

MarisBard-potato-chit-day20

  • short, plump, strong chits will help the potato get off to a quick start when they are planted in the ground.

  • This will mean new potatoes will be dug a few weeks early!



How to Choose Seed Potatoes

Filed under: potato — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 12:25 pm

How to Choose Seed Potatoes

Buy seed potatoes after Christmas, leaving sufficient time for chitting before planting.
The seed potatoes must be excellent quality:

  • certified Scottish grown seed. This means that the should not be carrying any virus diseases.
  • an even size, about as large as a hen’s egg
  • dry, clean, unspoilt skins
  • no rots or signs of disease



January 27, 2009

Winter digging

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 9:06 am

Winter digging

The time to dig the garden has changed. Recently we have had wetter autumns. So the garden is often very wet in November and too wet to dig.
The soil structure is damaged, if it is paddled (stood on) when wet. Now we dig just after Christmas to prepare for onion sets.

January 26, 2009

Watering Cans for the Vegetable Grower

Filed under: vegetable gardening — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 5:59 am

A carefully chosen watering can will add to the enjoyment of growing your own vegetables.

The watering can should be:

well balanced, easy to handle, durable, long lasting, value for money, & decorative

watering can

watering can

A watering can needs:

* a handle in a balanced position – to hold when carrying the can
without spillage
* a handle in a ‘backward’ position – to hold when pouring from the rose
* a removable rose so that the can may be used without a rose and so that the rose can be cleared when blocked (the rose is the perforated attachment at the end of the spout). Roses can be either round or oval. The shape and angle of the rose will determine the force of the stream of water from the rose.
* a spout which is slightly higher than the height of the body of
the can to allow the watering can to be filled to the brim.

Watering cans may be made of:

  • galvanized iron (heavy, more expensive, longer lasting, may rust)
  • plastic – light, cheap and durable . Plastic has smoother edges

& is therefore less likely to bruise your legs.

Specifications of watering cans

*1. Spouts-

  • Long spouted ( long reach) cans are useful to reach to the back of the vegetable garden, or if you are going to be spraying seedlings with finer sprayheads.
  • Shorter spouted cans are suitable for general watering jobs around the garden especially pot watering and spraying established plants. They are also easier to store.
  • Curved spouts have been designed especially for accurate spot-on watering of individual plants & plant pots

*2. Size – Two smaller watering cans, instead of one big one, are
easier to carry. Water is heavy. Carrying two smaller cans distributes
the weight more evenly as there is a can in each hand.

*3. Colour – have different coloured cans to avoid the risk of
contamination with weedkillers. Have one red plastic watering can for
soluble fertilizers or weed killers; plastic because some chemicals
should not be used in galvanised watering cans. A green watering can be kept for pure water

*4. Shape – Narrow-profile rectangular watering cans may be held closer to the body than round ones, allowing better posture and causing less strain for the gardener.

Click this link to buy a watering can from Thompson & Morgan.

Haws Watering Cans are generally accepted as being the best watering cans you can buy. These make a perfect present for the gardener.

What is a pole?

Filed under: vegetable gardening — Tags: — TopVeg @ 5:52 am

In the old days a working man needed a 20 pole (a pole is 25 sq meters)
plot to grow all the fruit and vegetables needed for his family. This is
probably a larger area than we would use today. A ‘working man’s
family’ was larger in those days. Also, he did not have the benefit of
our modern vegetable varieties, which are disease resistant and heavier
croppers.

Dermatitis or eczema on Gardener’s Hands

Filed under: vegetable gardening — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 4:49 am

Although dermatitis, or Eczema, is a specialist subject, it is of great interest to the vegetable gardener because their hands are used (& abused!) all the time, and often succumb to dermatitis.

The gardener’s hands must be treated well so that they remain healthy and able to work. But the skin on hands may become sensitive, so that it is easily irritated by different factors including, stress, water, some foods, irritants like soap and chemicals, allergic reactions to cats, wool, infections and many more. (more…)

January 15, 2009

Please hang in there…

Filed under: Uncategorized — TopVeg @ 10:06 am

Well, TopVeg has greeted 2009 with a major webserver problem. Due to a mistake by our hosting company, all posts and backups have been deleted, meaning a catastrophic loss of data. We are in the middle of rebuilding our site so please come back in a few days time.

We are sorry for the inconvenience and hope to see you back at TopVeg soon.

January 13, 2009

Grow Jerusalem artichokes

Filed under: root veg — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 12:31 pm
soup-tourine

soup-tourine

Jerusalem artichokes are wonderful for making soups.

Jerusalem artichokes are quite vigorous, and just keep going year after year if you leave them in the vegetable garden.

The normal season for lifting them is November to February, when they have stopped growing. The tubers bruise easily and lose moisture rapidly so they are best left in the ground and harvested as required.

Jerusalem artichokes produce flowers in late summer. The flowers last very well if picked for the house.

Jerusalem artichokes make great soup, and are a useful standby in the vegetable garden.

Vegetable Gardening combating childhood obesity

Filed under: vegetable gardening — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 12:28 pm

Australians are combating childhood obesity by integrating organic gardening, food preparation and healthy eating into the school curriculum. The initiative stems from the Stephanie Alexander Kitchen Garden Foundation.
This initiative aims to educate children on healthy eating habits, and it does so without directly naming and shaming students who may be overweight. More information can be found on the foundation’s website.

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