TopVeg – growing veg,fruit&herbs

February 28, 2009

How Many Potatoes Does One Seed Potato Produce?

Filed under: potato — Tags: — TopVeg @ 7:01 pm

It is useful to know how many potatoes will be produced by one seed potato when calculating how many seed potatoes to plant in the vegetable garden.

The number of potatoes produced by each seed potato varies according to:

 

The new potatoes, in the photo below, all came from one root, or one seed potato.

new-potatoes

 

Any number of new potatoes, from 2 – 10, can be produced from one seed potato. But most vegetable gardeners would expect at least 6 and preferably 8 -10 new potatoes from each seed tuber planted in the vegetable garden!

Jersey Royal Potatoes

Filed under: potato — Tags: , , , — TopVeg @ 7:29 am

The potato variety called International Kidney is the most important crop on Jersey, produced and sold as Jersey Royal new potatoes.

jersey royals

jersey royals

Jersey Royals, or International Kidney, are:

  • second earlies
  • can also be used as a general purpose early crop
  • very waxy potato
  • good salad potato
  • tasty new potatoes



February 27, 2009

Why boiled potatoes go mushy.

Filed under: potato — Tags: — TopVeg @ 6:50 pm

 

Why boiled potatoes go mushy.

Different varieties of potatoes are suitable for different uses. Some are grown for baking, other varieties for boiling etc.. A baking potato will not be a very good boiling potato, and vice-versa.

But, sometimes a ‘boiling’ potato gives poor results, collapsing or ’sloughing’ in the pan, to produce a mush. This is because growing conditions (particularly the nutrition and irrigation) have a greater effect on the cook-ability than variety. Where, when and how the potatoes were grown accounts for about two-thirds of the variation in cooking qualities, with variety only causing one-third of the variation.

The low solids potatoes, the guaranteed stay-whole boilers, probably need more irrigation and higher N applications. Soil should be well fertilised or have a good dressing of farmyard manure before potatoes are sown.

The texture of a cooked potato is directly related to dry matter content. Potatoes are described as moist to wet if they have a low dry matter content, or mealy when dry matter is high. Potatoes, such as Norland, with a low dry matter hold together well when boiled, but tend to be wet when baked. Potatoes such as Russet Burbank, which have a high dry matter content, may slough or break up when boiled, but have a dry, mealy texture when baked.

Research into the culinary quality of potatoes indicates that sloughing and mealiness of steamed potatoes increases with tuber Specific Gravity. This relationship means that the likelihood of steamed tubers having particular textural characteristics can be predicted from their Specific Gravity.

Do-it-yourself Specific Gravity Test for Potatoes

Add 225gm table salt to 1775 gm water and stir until dissolved. The temperature should be around 20C. This produces a salt solution with a specific gravity of about 1.080.

Place the potatoes into the solution, one at a time. If they float, they will be good, firm boilers. If they sink, they will probably be mealy when boiled. These are high dry matter potatoes, and probably best steamed.

The culinary quality of potatoes can be influenced by crop management, particularly irrigation and nutrition.

Time of Maturity in Potatoes

Filed under: potato — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 6:48 pm

Time of Maturity
An early potato will produce tubers in a shorter growing period than a main crop potato.

  • Early potatoes are planted from January to March and are ready for digging from May-July.
  • Second earlies are planted between February and May and harvested from July to October.
  • Main crop potatoes are planted in April and harvesting is in September and October.

Second earlies and main crop can be stored over the winter.

February 24, 2009

Damage to Trees by Squirrels

Filed under: pests&diseases — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 5:41 pm
squirell

squirell

Grey Squirrels cause considerable damage to young trees.

Squirrel damage is caused by:

    * gnawing the bark of trees. If a complete ring of bark disappears,
      the tree will die. This is because the food and water are
      transported up and down the tree in the bark – in the phloem and
      xylem. If the bark is removed, the tree starves to death because
      the transport links are broken.
    * damaging the growing tip of the tree. This causes loss of apical
      dominance, resulting in the tree becoming multi-stemmed, & loosing
      form.
    * wounding the surface of the tree, which allows infections to
      enter, causing disease and decay

Beneficial Bugs 101

Filed under: pests&diseases — Tags: , , , — TopVeg @ 11:12 am
Beneficial Bugs 101

 

Your vegetable garden requires a great many things to be healthy and happy. The perfect soil, adequate sunlight, plenty of water and some beneficial bugs. Yes, that’s right. Those little critters can be very helpful to your garden and can keep the more destructive bugs out of the garden.

The really important thing here is to know which ones are the good ones and what plants you need in your garden to keep them around. Beneficial bugs are especially important for anyone who wants to keep their garden organic, as it will eliminate the need for pesticides.

Beneficial bugs include: assassin bugs, hover flies, lacewings, lady beetles, pirate bugs, wasps, tachinid flies, and dragonflies. These guys will keep away trouble makers such as aphids, stink bugs, mealybugs and hornworms by eating their larvae. Not bad, huh?

If you build it, they will come. That means you will need to have plants to which these bugs are attracted if you want them to make their way over to your garden. Pollen and nectar are big draws for beneficial bugs so you will want to be sure to have several plant varieties that produce it.

And, don’t assume you need to wipe out every bad bug you see in your garden. It would behoove you to show a bit of patience as these may attract a certain variety of beneficial bugs that will come along and take care of them so you will not need to worry. For example, aphids are very attractive to ladybugs and lacewings.

If you have aphids and wait a bit, they will be by in no time. Their larvae feed on the aphids, which works out quite well for you as the gardener. Mating generally takes place near an aphid source to ensure a plentiful food supply.

If you can not wait for the aphids to meet their end at the hands of the ladybugs, spray them with a fine mist of water to knock them off leaves so they can not do any damage. The troops will be in to take care of things in due time. They are clever little bugs and will know to look on the ground!

By-line:

This post was contributed by Holly McCarthy, who writes on the subject of the  online certification programs.. She invites your feedback at hollymccarthy12 at gmail dot com

February 23, 2009

Cabbage White Butterfly in the Vegetable Garden

Filed under: pests&diseases — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 7:43 pm

Prevention and control of the Cabbage White Butterfly is a concern of
all vegetable gardeners. The first Cabbage White Butterfly of the year
was spotted in the vegetable garden today.

There are two types of cabbage white:

* the Large White butterfly – Pieris brassicae
* the Small White butterfly – Pieris rapae.

The cabbage white butterflies lay clusters of yellow eggs

cabbage-white-eggs

cabbage-white-eggs

on the leaves of brassicas (e.g. cabbage, sprouts, cauliflowers, turnips
and swedes).

The eggs hatch out into green caterpillars, which eat the leaves so that
large holes are seen. They also tunnel into the hearts of the
vegetables, spoiling them and causing them to rot. The caterpillars
excrete small brown or green granular deposits as they eat the leaves.

Prevention:
* inspect daily & remove any eggs & caterpillars
* cover brassicas with insect proof netting
* avoid planting colourful plants near the brassicas which will
attract butterflies
* encourage birds which will eat the caterpillars by putting out
bird feed
* wash infected plants with soapy water

The Cabbage White Butterfly requires constant attention , with daily
checks to make sure the vegetables are not being eaten by the cabbage
white caterpillars.

Leek rust

Filed under: pests&diseases — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 7:36 pm

Leek rust (/Puccinia porri, or Puccinia allii/) is uncommon, but a
severe attack will ruin the crop. Mild symptoms do not render the crop
inedible. Leek rust is different from the rust that infects chives and
onions.

Appearance of leek rust:

* orange spots & blotches appear on the surface of the leaf

Causes of leek rust:

* crowded plants
* high humidity
* excessive soil nitrogen
* insufficient soil potassium
* poor garden hygiene – all plant debris must be removed from the
beds so that the fungus has nowhere to hide.

Treatment of leek rust

* remove and burn diseased leaves
* there is no chemical treatment available to use in the kitchen garden

Prevention of leek rust
* do not plant the leeks too close
* rotate crops – do not grow leeks where leeks & onions were grown
the previous year
* apply a potassium rich fertiliser (such as tomato feed)
* grow disease resistant varieties
* practise good garden hygiene, and keep the vegetable garden tidy

American Gooseberry Mildew

Filed under: pests&diseases — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 7:17 pm

strong>American Gooseberry Mildew (latin name – Sphaerotheca mors-uvae) is a common fungal disease of gooseberries and blackcurrants. Red and white
currants may also be attacked.

Signs of American Gooseberry Mildew in Gooseberries:
A powdery, white coating appears on new shoots, spreading to young
leaves and, eventually, the berries. Later these patches form a
felt-like mat and turn brown. Leaves curl up and fall off. The
gooseberries are small and may be covered with brown felt.

American Gooseberry Mildew occurs:

* in crowded plants
* humid conditions
* areas of coastal fog
* when the soil around the roots is dry
* where irrigation is by overhead sprinkling
* in crowded plants

Life cycle of American Gooseberry Mildew
The fungus overwinters in dormant buds. These produce infected shoots in
spring which spread the disease by releasing wind-blown spores.

Prevention and control:
* select a suitable planting site which is sunny and not humid
* allow plenty of space between bushes
* prune to keep bushes open and airy
* avoid too much nitrogen-rich fertilizer which will produce soft
shoots, more susceptible to infection
* cut out and burn infected shoots in July & September
* water to keep the soil around the roots moist
* use a mulch

mulch-on-raspberries

mulch-on-raspberries

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* grow mildew resistant varieties such as Invicta
* chemical control - spray with a sulphur fungicide - but check
that the chemical is safe on the variety by spraying a small area
and waiting for 24 hours to see if the leaves start to curl.
Spray just before flowers open, after fruit set and again 2-3
weeks later. Spray flowering crops at dusk when bees are not
active. Do not use in full sun. Read the label and follow the
instructions.

A robin nest box

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , — TopVeg @ 3:11 pm
robin's-nest

robin's-nest

Placing nest boxes in the garden can be very rewarding. Robins like to nest inside a container, like an old kettle or plant pot.

A cheap, woven nest box was put in some ivy on the edge of the kitchen
garden in the middle of February. A piece of tin was placed over the
roof, to keep the rain off.

A robin moved in within a week, and started to build a nest.

robin nest box

This is a photo of the nest inside the new box.

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