TopVeg – growing veg,fruit&herbs

April 27, 2009

Problems with Vegetables Grown in Containers

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 5:11 pm

Problems with vegetables grown in containers are easily rectified if recognised early. The container garden should be inspected regularly, at least daily, so it is worth keeping it in an accessible place.

Common problems in container gardening are:

  • Leggy plants – caused by insufficient light or too much nitrogen. Put this right by

moving the container to a lighter position, or reducing the amount of nitrogen given.

  • Weak plants with yellow lower leaves – caused by too much water or low fertility. Check the drainage and reduce the amount of watering. Feed the plants.
  • Wilting plants even though plenty of water – caused by poor drainage or the soil being too dense and lacking in oxygen. Lighten the soil by adding sand or compost.
  • Eaten leaves – look for insects – pick them off, or wash the plants with soapy water.
  • Spotty leaves – with a white or brown powdery or dead patch – caused by a fungus – pick the diseased area off and put it in the rubbish bin.
  • Stunted, purply plants – too cold, bring the containers in or cover at night.

Containers growing vegetables need plenty of tender loving care. Problems can be identified early, and corrected, so that the containers are productive giving plenty of fresh, well flavoured vegetables.

Mayan Potatoes

Filed under: potato — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 7:28 am

Mayan potatoes have been developed in Scotland from an ancient variety which was brought back from the wilds of Peru.

Mayan potatoes:

  • have more flavour than normal spuds
  • bulk up on water
  • are quicker to cook – saving time and energy
  • yield less than  conventional potatoes
mayan potatoes

mayan potatoes

There are several varieties of Mayan potato,  including these 3 early maincrop potatoes:

Mayan Gold
Mayan Queen
Mayan Twilight

Mayan potatoes cook in a third less time than ‘conventional’ potatoes & have an excellent flavour.

April 26, 2009

Eggs of the Large White or Cabbage White.

Filed under: cabbages — Tags: , , , — TopVeg @ 12:50 pm

Watch out for the eggs of the Large White or Cabbage White  (Latin Name – Pieris brassicae) butterfly. The eggs are laid on the underside of brassica leaves. So check your cabbage, sprouts, broccoli etc. regularly. The female butterfly lays batches of 20 to 100 yellow eggs underneath the leaves of the plants.

cabbage-white-eggs

cabbage-white-eggs

If seen the eggs should be removed. Soapy water will help unglue the cabbage white eggs from the leaf.

Botrytis Neck Rot in Onions.

Filed under: root veg — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 12:44 pm

Onions must be checked for Neck Rot (latin name – Botrytis allii, B. squamosa and B. cinerea) once they have been lifted, because it destroys onion bulbs in storage.

onion-neck-rot

onion-neck-rot

White onion varieties are more susceptible, but red and yellow varieties may suffer. Garlic, shallots, chives, and leeks are also affected by neck rot.

April 25, 2009

Planting Beetroot Seeds – Beta vulgaris

Filed under: root veg — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 4:03 pm

Beetroot, also known as Red Beet (latin name – Beta vulgaris) was planted today:

    * variety – Boltardy
    * rows 30cm apart (wide enough to get the hoe down)
    * depth 2cm
    * seeds 2cm apart in the row

The seedbed was dry because it had been covered to keep the rain off.

beetroot-seedbed
beetroot-seedbed

The corky beetroot ’seed’ in the packet is really a fruit containing several seeds. So they will need thinning, even though the ’seeds’ have been carefully spaced.

beetroot seeds 2cm apart

beetroot-seeds-2cm-apart
beetroot-seeds-2cm-apart

seed 2cm deep

beetroot-seed-2cm-deep
beetroot-seed-2cm-deep
beetroot-row
beetroot-row

The beetroot seeds were then gently watered in to tighten the soil in the row.

how_to_grow_beetroot_sheet
how_to_grow_beetroot_sheet

Contact us if you are planting beetroot seeds and would like a pdf of the How to Grow Beetroot sheet.

Planting Alicante Tomatoes in GrowPots

Filed under: tomato — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 3:51 pm

Tomato – Latin name ‘Lycopersicon esculentum’

The variety ‘Alicante’ is a cordon type which is best in the greenhouse, but can be grown outside in a sheltered spot.

alicante-tomato
alicante-tomato

We are using some growpots which fit into growbags for planting tomatoes.

preparing-to-plant-tomatoes
preparing-to-plant-tomatoes

The advantage is that the tomato food is targeted on the roots in the inside pot. The outer pot is used for water, and it makes watering much quicker. Water can be left in the outer reservoir to trickle into the growbag when required.

growpots
growpots

Three growpots fit into one growbag. The tomatoes are planted so that the compost is the same level as the outer chamber. This leaves room for a pint of water to be added to the top of the pot.

growpots-with-tomatoes-in-grobags
growpots-with-tomatoes-in-grobags

The advantages of the growpot are:

    *      watering will be easier

    *      the tomato will be well watered

    *      tomato food will be used more efficiently

plant-tomatoes-in-greenhouse
plant-tomatoes-in-greenhouse

Supporting Tomato Plants.

Filed under: salad — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 3:25 pm

 Supporting Tomatoes
Bush types  require no supports.
The main stem of cordon types needs supporting to stop it falling over. Canes or strings can be used.

string-tomato-to-cane
string-tomato-to-cane

tie tomato stem each 30 cm

tie-tomato-stem-each-30cm
tie-tomato-stem-each-30cm

If canes are used to  support the tomato plants, the main stem should be tied loosely to the cane as it grows. So there will be a string holding the stem to the cane every 30cm or so. Soft string should be used, so that it does not cut into the stem.

How Flowers Attract Insects

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 3:04 pm

This marrow flower is a great example of  how flowers attract insects.

The flowers are:

* very large – with huge petals

insects-on-marrow-flower

insects-on-marrow-flower

* brightly coloured

marrow-flower-centre

marrow-flower-centre

* yellow

guiding-lines

guiding-lines

* open – with guide lines to the center of the flower, which attract the insects down the petals to the flower centre.

April 24, 2009

Home Testing Kits for Potato Blight

Filed under: pests&diseases — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 3:03 pm

TopVeg demands return on effort so the new Home Testing Kit for Potato Blight is good news. A lot of effort goes into growing potatoes, and blight can ruin the crop in days.

If potatoes are showing symptoms of potato blight, vegetable gardeners can use Pocket Check to get a diagnosis.
A small sample from the potato plant is added to the extraction bottle and shaken for 30 seconds. Using the pipette, 2-3 drops of the extraction mixture is added to each of the tests. The test takes between 3-10 minutes to complete giving a positive or negative conclusion.

The Pocket Check tests cost £7.65 + VAT

potato-blight

potato-blight

Each kit contains the following:
1 x Phytophthora test, 1 x Botrytis test, 1 x sample extraction bottle
(containing extraction buffer and ball bearings), 1 x pipette, instructions and
disease information card.

Click this link for information on the control of potato blight

This potato blight checker has been used in the potato industry for a few years. Now that it is available as a home testing kit, vegetable gardeners have a good tool to help them control potato blight.

April 23, 2009

Making Compost

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: — TopVeg @ 2:26 pm

Compost is easy to make, & is an environmentally-friendly activity. The
compost produced can be used in many ways which improve the garden and
save money. Get the whole family on board. Show them the benefits of
composting and how to look after the compost heap so that it produces
good results.

Steps to producing top quality compost:

* Get a low cost compost bin
* Place the bin on level, well-drained bare earth, so the worms can get in
* Start filling the bin with waste garden and kitchen organic material
* Remember compost needs the right mix of materials, called browns and greens, to give the right carbon:nitrogen ratio.
* Browns are high in carbon & include cardboard, paper, fallen leaves, dried flowers & woody stems
* Greens are high in nitrogen & include grass cuttings, vegetable peelings, fruit waste & teabags
* Compost which does not heat up within 24 hours (to 150-160F) needs more green
* Compost with an ammonia-like smell needs more brown
* Do not compost meat, fish, bones, dairy products, cooked food, coal ash, pet litter
* Chop large items into small pieces to help speed things up
* Cover to keep the compost moist, but not wet. If it is too dry add water, if it is too wet add some dry stuff like chopped newspaper

* Aerate the compost, occasionally, by making air pockets. The insects & worms that are breaking the compost down will need the oxygen. Poke a broom handle into the compost to make an air passage, or use a garden fork. Adding scrunched up paper will keep the compost open
* Speed up the composting process by adding a handful of soil or buy a compost accelerator (young nettles will do the same job)
* The compost will be ready to use after 9-12 months. It will be dark brown, moist, sweet-smelling and crumbly. It may have some earthworms in it.
* To release the compost, lift the bin, or if it has a hatch at the bottom, open it.

Use the compost as:

* a mulch on soft fruit and herbs
* a fertiliser for feeding the vegetables
* a soil improver

Making compost is an essential part of sustainable vegetable gardening.

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