A Constant Supply of Beans.

Posted by TopVeg - July 18th, 2007

The bean row has a succession of beans, starting with broad beans planted in November, followed by two later plantings of broad beans, ending with runner beans and french beans.

bean row

The early broad beans are now over. The second planting of broad beans, Sutton, have suffered from Chocolate Spot. Read More »

Runner Beans follow Broad Beans.

Posted by TopVeg - July 18th, 2007

The early broad beans, planted in November, have cropped heavily but are now over, & will be replaced with runner beans.

finished broad beans

The broad beans went into good soil with a good structure. Thanks to the bed system, this soil has not been trodden on, because the plants can be harvested from the paths alongside the beds. So no cultivation work is necessary. There are no weeds, and therefore the soil need not be disturbed.

The soil is very wet from recent rains, and would easily loose its structure if moved.

The broad beans will be cut off at soil level, and the runner beans will be transplanted directly into the broad bean patch.

Hazel Poles for Bean Wigwam.

Posted by TopVeg - July 13th, 2007

Hazel poles make a strong wigwam to support runner beans and climbing french beans.

hazel wigwam

The bean plants do not have to be tied to the pole. They find their own way to the pole and then twist themselves around it.

french bean

Read More »

Bean Supports, Poles or Sticks.

Posted by TopVeg - July 11th, 2007

Runner Beans need poles, trellis or mesh to climb up and provide support.

bamboo wigwam beans bean support

When the beans are mature, they will have a great mass of foliage, which is heavy, particularly when it is wet following rain. Therefore the supports need to be strong and firmly in place. Read More »

Harvesting Broad Beans from the Garden

Posted by TopVeg - June 26th, 2007

The early broad beans which were sown in November are ready to harvest.

broad bean crop broad bean plant mature broad beans

The pods have swollen and the beans inside are properly formed, but still really small and sweet.

broad bean pods

It is always a balance between yield and sweet tenderness. Read More »

Taking Out the Tops of Broad Beans.

Posted by TopVeg - May 22nd, 2007

Gardeners pinch out the tip of Broad Bean plants to prevent damage by Blackfly.

This video demonstrates the process. Click on the arrow at the bottom left of the screen to play the video.

Click here for more information.

How to Pinch-out Tops of Broad Beans

Posted by TopVeg - May 15th, 2007

Gardeners often pinch out the tops of broad beans to curb black fly. We very rarely pinch out the tops. But if blackfly are a problem, the tips may be pinched out when the first pods are set.

To pinch out the tops:

  • first select the top of the broad bean plant

broad bean top

  • find broad bean top
  • Hold the tip between finger and thumb

pinch out top

  • pinch the tip so that it breaks away from the plant

top of broad bean

Read More »

Broad Bean Sowing

Posted by TopVeg - May 14th, 2007

Broad Bean Latin name Vicia faba

The final sowing of broad beans have emerged into good strong plants.

broad bean plant

  • 2 varieties of broad bean were sown: Bunyards Exhibition & Masterpiece Green Long Pod
  • Depth of sowing: 5cm
  • Distance apart within row: 30cm
  • Distance between rows: 45cm

broad bean row

This vegetable garden has very fertile soil, and the beans grow vigorously, and larger than the seedsmen predict. Therefore, we plant them further apart than recommended. Also we do not plant in the traditional double rows, for the same reason. But because our beds are quite narrow, and because we do not have double rows, our rows are actually closer together than the seed packet advises.

broad beans

Growing French Beans

Posted by TopVeg - May 9th, 2007

French Beans Phaseolus vulgaris

French beans are a must for the vegetable garden. They are simple to grow, delicious and very nutritious.

French beans are shorter, more tender and tubular than runner beans. French beans are much easier to prepare in the kitchen, as they only have to be topped and tailed, not sliced like runner beans.

French beans grow very quickly, taking about 12 weeks to come to harvest. Like runner beans they must be picked regularly to keep the flowers coming.

Dwarf french beans are bushy, but usually need a simple support of twigs or strings, to keep them upright.

Climbing French beans need wigwams or stakes similar to runner beans.

Sunny, sheltered sites are best for french beans. The seeds grow best in a warm situation and pollination is hampered by cold winds.

Blackfly on Broad Beans

Posted by TopVeg - May 2nd, 2007

Latin name: Aphis fabae (in the family of Aphididae)

Blackfly is a serious pest of broadbeans in the kitchen garden. A whole mass of shiny black insects cover the growing tips, flower buds and the underside of young leaves of the broad bean plant.

Keep a sharp look out for blackfly on spring-sown beans when they are in flower in June. One advantage of sowing broad beans in the autumn is that they tend to flower early, producing beans in May or June, before any blackfly appear.

Blackfly suck the sap from the broad bean plant causing stunted growth with curled, distorted leaves, and poor crop yields.

Discourage blackfly attack by pinching out the growing tips of the broad bean plants when they are in full flower. Some gardeners pinch out the tops when five flowers have formed, or when the first pods have set. Remember the pinched out tops may be cooked & eaten!

Click this link to see a video of how to pinch out the tops of broad beans.

Blackfly control:

  • wash or spray with a mild soap solution
  • encourage their natural enemies - ladybirds, hoverfly larvae, lacewing larvae and parasitic wasps
  • Insecticides:

Contact insecticides work when they actually touch the blackfly. They have short persistence, so thorough treatment, especially of the underside of leaves, is necessary. Aphids protected by curled leaves are unlikely to be controlled.

Synthetic pesticides generally give a higher level of control. Always read the label for instructions on the use of the product and harvest intervals. The harvest interval is the period of time between spraying the crop and it being safe to eat.

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