Posted by TopVeg - May 14th, 2007
Broad Bean
Latin name Vicia faba
The final sowing of broad beans have emerged into good strong plants.

- 2 varieties of broad bean were sown: Bunyards Exhibition & Masterpiece Green Long Pod
- Depth of sowing: 5cm
- Distance apart within row: 30cm
- Distance between rows: 45cm

This vegetable garden has very fertile soil, and the beans grow vigorously, and larger than the seedsmen predict. Therefore, we plant them further apart than recommended. Also we do not plant in the traditional double rows, for the same reason. But because our beds are quite narrow, and because we do not have double rows, our rows are actually closer together than the seed packet advises.

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Posted by TopVeg - May 9th, 2007
French Beans Phaseolus vulgaris
French beans are a must for the vegetable garden. They are simple to grow, delicious and very nutritious. Â
French beans are shorter, more tender and tubular than runner beans. French beans are much easier to prepare in the kitchen, as they only have to be topped and tailed, not sliced like runner beans.
French beans grow very quickly, taking about 12 weeks to come to harvest. Like runner beans they must be picked regularly to keep the flowers coming.
Dwarf french beans are bushy, but usually need a simple support of twigs or strings, to keep them upright.
Climbing French beans need wigwams or stakes similar to runner beans.
Sunny, sheltered sites are best for french beans. The seeds grow best in a warm situation and pollination is hampered by cold winds.
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Posted by TopVeg - May 2nd, 2007
Latin name: Aphis fabae (in the family of Aphididae)
Blackfly is a serious pest of broadbeans in the kitchen garden. A whole mass of shiny black insects cover the growing tips, flower buds and the underside of young leaves of the broad bean plant.
Keep a sharp look out for blackfly on spring-sown beans when they are in flower in June. One advantage of sowing broad beans in the autumn is that they tend to flower early, producing beans in May or June, before any blackfly appear.
Blackfly suck the sap from the broad bean plant causing stunted growth with curled, distorted leaves, and poor crop yields.
Discourage blackfly attack by pinching out the growing tips of the broad bean plants when they are in full flower. Some gardeners pinch out the tops when five flowers have formed, or when the first pods have set. Remember the pinched out tops may be cooked & eaten!
Click this link to see a video of how to pinch out the tops of broad beans.
Blackfly control:
- wash or spray with a mild soap solution
- encourage their natural enemies - ladybirds, hoverfly larvae, lacewing larvae and parasitic wasps
- Insecticides:
Contact insecticides work when they actually touch the blackfly. They have short persistence, so thorough treatment, especially of the underside of leaves, is necessary. Aphids protected by curled leaves are unlikely to be controlled.
Synthetic pesticides generally give a higher level of control. Always read the label for instructions on the use of the product and harvest intervals. The harvest interval is the period of time between spraying the crop and it being safe to eat.
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Posted by TopVeg - May 2nd, 2007
Botrytis cinerea and Botrytis fabaeÂ
Chocolate spot is a fungal disease which attacks Broad Beans in the vegetable garden.The leaves and stems, when affected, are covered with dark brown lesions, which look as though they have been covered in chocolate powder. Causes of chocolate spot:
- overcrouding - dense crop with lush growth
- high humidity - wet season
- acidic growing conditions
- too much nitrogen fertiliser
- winter sown crops more susceptible
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To avoid chocolate spot:
- give plants plenty of space
- do not apply nitrogen fertiliser
- burn affected plants after harvest
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Effects of Chocolate Spot on Broad Beans
- beans are still edible, although the pods are discoloured
- reduced yield as pods do not fill
- death of plants if severe
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A mild attack of Chocolate Spot on broad beans in the vegetable garden is not a disaster. A satisfactory crop of beans may be harvested. It is a warning to give broad beans a healthy start next year with plenty of space for air to be able to circulate round them.
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Posted by TopVeg - April 22nd, 2007
Runner beans form long, flat pods which have to be eaten when young. Picking every other day is essential to ensure a continual supply. They stop producing flowers if any beans are not picked. They are a highly productive vegetable and the flowers are decorative.

Stick beans is another name for runner beans because they climb up sticks or poles.
The poles should be 80cm x 80cm apart.
Hazel is the preferred pole, but they are hard to get hold of. It is possible to buy plastic poles, or bamboo canes can be used. These must be firmly supported, as the foliage becomes very heavy, and strong winds will blow them over. The usual method is to have a double line of inwardly facing and crossed poles with a horizontal holding bar tied along the ridge. Wigwams are becoming more popular, with a cone of poles tied at the top into a wigwam shape.
Sow 2-3 seeds per pole or cane, when the danger of frost has passed.
Runner beans require a well-dug fertile soil with good drainage.
Varieties
- Painted Lady - long beans, red&white flowers, high yields
- Desiree - long, stringless pods . White flowers, heavy cropper, good flavour
- Enorma - excellent cropper with slender beans
- Scarlet Emperor - very long beans, delicious and tender

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Posted by TopVeg - March 27th, 2007
Today the covers were taken off the early broad beans & placed over the recently planted seeds.

Honey bees & bumble bees were buzzing about under the polythene, fertilising the bean flowers.

In gardens exposed to winds, the beans will have to be secured, so that they do not blow about.
              
Battered plants will loose too much moisture, bruise leaves and loosen & damage roots.
The beans can be loosely tied to stakes with string. 
If the stems are not fastened, all investment in time & effort in bringing the plants to this stage will be wasted. Spending time tieing the beans up will ensure a good harvest.
The soil between the broad bean rows was hoed. Constant hoeing of the soil, is quick and easy, if done when the weeds are tiny.

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Posted by TopVeg - March 25th, 2007
Another row of broad beans is in the garden. The beans were planted in long , biodegradable pots, filled with peat, & the pots have been put in the ground.
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The soil is still cold and wet, even though it has been covered for a few weeks. Surrounding the bean seed with peat in the pot will give the seed an easy start. Once it has developed, the bean roots will grow through the fibrous pot into the soil.
A wide plank is spread over the bed to walk on. This avoids compacting the soil. Compacted soil is not easy for vegetables to grow in. A measuring board helps space the pots at the correct distance.

Planting a row of beans every three weeks, will spread harvest and avoid a glut!
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Posted by TopVeg - March 12th, 2007
Peas & beans produce a very long root as soon as they start growing. Ideally, this root should not be disturbed when the seedlings are transplanted into the veg garden, so that the root will continue to grow down to reach as much water and nutrient as possible.
If the seeds are started off in small pots, the root will curl round. When transplanted, the root will tend to grow in a tight ball. The root will not have access to as much water and food as it would if it were growing straight down. So the plant is compromised.
Therefore, if planting peas & beans in pots, use long pots. Supermarkets sell cream & yoghurt in narrow 250ml plastic pots. These are ideal, with a hole poked in the bottom. Long plastic pots can be found in garden centers or on the web, including special root trainers.

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Posted by TopVeg - January 18th, 2007
7 Jan 2007
Plan to spread harvest and prevent all the vegetables coming at onceÂ
Small plastic cloches have been spread over the next 2 rows, which will dry the land out for the next batch of broad beans to be planted
 
There will then be 3 lots of broad beans: those in the big rigid tunnel, the ones transplanted a couple of days ago, & those to be planted in the plastic cloches
 
The first beans to be planted got a bit leggy. The rigid tunnel was rather dirty, and the green algae reduced the light getting to the seedlings. So the plastic sheets had a good wash today.
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Posted by TopVeg - January 18th, 2007
6 January 2007
Planting broad beans in the autumn and spring will stagger the harvest and provide beans to the kitchen over a longer period.
Broad beans planted in October are now about 2inches high. The variety is The Sutton from Thompson & Morgan. Although sold as a dwarf variety, it grows to about 1 metre on our fertile soil & we did put strings round the row last summer, to stop the plants falling over.
We planted 2 seeds at each planting station, in case one did not germinate Read More »
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