TopVeg – growing veg,fruit&herbs

April 16, 2011

Driest March since 1961

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 8:54 pm

March has been the driest since 1961 for England and Wales,  according to  Dr Liz Bentley of the Royal Meteorological Society, & founder of the Weather Club

Dr Bentley  says the next few weeks could be critical for water companies, farmers and wildlife, and could determine if there are hosepipe bans later in the year.  Farmers & gardeners have already started to water their crops. 

watering-onions

watering-onions

It is unusual to irrigate crops this early in the year & it is due to lack of rainfall over a prolonged period.

water beans

water beans

The Big Butterfly Count  newsletter says that ‘despite the incredibly cold weather last December, butterflies and moths have got off to a ‘flying’ start this year. February was a very warm month, by normal UK standards, and March was much drier and sunnier than average.’   In fact it was the driest March since 1961.

water

water

April 12, 2010

Watering newly planted seed

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 10:02 pm

ben_short on Twitter, has asked TopVeg “any advice on avoiding creating a surface pan when watering a newly planted seed bed?”

This is a very interesting question, which requires a longer answer than the 140 characters allowed on Twitter!

water

water

1.  Give small droplets of water – using a very fine rose on a watering can, or a spray.  This will not swill the surface like water from a hose pipe

2.  Retain small cloddy bits of soil on the surface, to help keep it open.  It is good to have fine soil around the seed to give plenty of soil/seed contact.  The seed can then take the water from the soil & start to grow.  But the surface of the seedbed should contain little lumps of soil, so that it is not a powder which will soak up water & then dry into a hard sheet or cap.

water-seeds-in

water-seeds-in

3.  When raking the seedbed do not collect up all the small bits and clods to leave totally fine soil.  Fine, powdery soil will run together when wetted, & then go solid when it dries out.

rake-seed-bed

rake-seed-bed

4.  Do not overwork the soil, leaving a very fine soil on the top.  The fine soil will go hard after a wet & a dry.  The germinating shoot will not be able to push through this hard cap.

5.  On clay/loamy soils,  sow seed into moist (not wet) conditions.  Before watering the seeds in, let the surface of the soil dry out a little so that the small cloddy particles go hard.  Then they will repel water and not melt when wetted.

6.  Be careful not to over water and make the soil water- logged.  Too much water will fill all the air spaces – pushing all the oxygen out of the soil.  It is better to water little & often, maintaining a permanently moist (not wet) soil.

Watering a newly planted seed bed requires lots of attention to detail!

March 30, 2010

Water Butt Offers

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 9:10 pm

Yorkshire Water having a campaign to show exactly what they do to ensure people have clean water.  Their  virtual tour takes you through the whole process, from rain drop to sewer.

Harcostar Magnum Water Butt Kit, 350 litres, Green

They also have some great deals on water butts and composters – click this link for details.

August 1, 2009

Rainfall in the TopVeg garden

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 8:55 am

Rainfall in the TopVeg garden in 2009 so far:

  • January  32 ml
  • February 45.5 ml
  • March 17 ml
  • April 7 ml
  • May 41.5 ml
  • June 13 ml
  • July 111 ml

July 23, 2009

Using Drip Tape

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: — TopVeg @ 11:00 am
We have been using drip tape for about 5 years to water the vegetables in a dry time.
drip-tape-on-potatoes

drip-tape-on-potatoes

We do not lay the flat drip tape below the surface of the soil.  It would be difficult to detect problems in the tape if it was below the surface.
The water pushes the soil particles away from the pipe so the soil does not clog our tape.  Roots could be a problem if it is down for some time, but we have not had a problem with roots.  It could depend on the quality of the tape.
Alkaline soils cause the tape to block with lime scale.  The tape has then to be unblocked with acid & this is easier to do & manage if the tape is on the surface.
We are in the UK, where the climate is temperate.  So the tape does not get very hot, & expand.  In hot countries, the tape will expand in the heat & wiggle about a bit, which may make harvesting difficult if you are trying to avoid the tape.
The tape will be damaged if a reaping machine catches it. But gardeners using a hand-held fork (to dig potatoes) will also damage the tape if they are not careful.
Because of this I lay the drip line on the surface down the row, and remember where it is, so that I can avoid it when harvesting.
The evaporation loss, because it is on the surface, is insignificant.
Using drip tape with care protects it so that it can be used year after year.

May 12, 2009

Drip Irrigation on Potatoes

Filed under: potato — Tags: , , , — TopVeg @ 2:31 am

Drip irrigation has several advantages when used on potatoes:

  • saves water
  • waters more evenly
  • waters more gently

The drip irrigation pipe can  run either  on the soil surface or in the soil.  In the photo below the drip irrigation pipe is on top of the potato ridge, so that it will be under the leaf canopy.  Loss of moisture from evaporation will therefore be reduced.

drip-irrigation-pipe

drip-irrigation-pipe

The next picture shows the hole in the pipe from which the water continually drips.

drip-hole

drip-hole

Drip irrigation on potatoes is an efficient way of watering potatoes and a good way to increase yield.

April 23, 2009

Selenium – an essential micronutrient for plants

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: — TopVeg @ 12:41 pm

Selenium is an essential micronutrient for plants.

In dry conditions, selenium:

  • regulates the plants’ water balance
  • postpones senescence
  • protects plants from sunburn

Studies at the Jozef Stefan Institute of the University of Ljubljana, Slovenia, demonstrate that selenium is an important micronutrient, playing a vital part in the drought resistance of plants.

April 22, 2009

Water Newly Planted Trees

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 2:08 pm

Water and mulch newly planted trees, to avoid wasting all the effort spent digging the hole and planting the tree.

If the soil around the tree is very dry, it will need several buckets of water. Once the soil is wet, cover it with lawn mowings or another mulch.
When the tree has been mulched it will not need watering so often.

Trees planted before Christmas have had time to develop roots and benefit from the winter rains.

Trees planted after Christmas, nearer to the Spring, have an increasing problem getting established.

* The disturbed soil in the planting hole will dry out easily. There will be problems with capillary action, and water will not be able to rise up from the subsoil.
* The tree will want to grow in the spring.
* As bare rooted plants come out of the winter, they will start to produce roots. But the disturbed soil will not provide a suitable environment for rooting.
* The disturbed soil will not have sufficient water and nutrients to enable the tree to keep growing.

Therefore the newly planted tree will need extra water.

Scrape away a bit of soil from under the tree with a hand. Squeeze the soil between finger and thumb. If the soil stays together it is wet enough.

To check if a mulched plant needs water, move some mulch out of the way, to feel the soil beneath.

It is easier to keep the soil topped up little and often. Once the soil has dried out, it is more difficult to wet because the water runs through the gaps in the soil particles. So it takes more water to wet baked-out soil.

It is very difficult to over-water a growing tree, as the water will just drain away.

When wet soil is mulched with lawn clippings, the moisture is retained.
Mulching is the key to a healthy, well-grown tree.

Look After New Trees

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , — TopVeg @ 2:02 pm

Give young trees the care and attention they deserve, to ensure a payback on the hard work undertaken in planting them.

* Keep the soil around them moist
* Mulch around the base of the tree
* Check the stake is secure so that the tree does not rock and dislodge its roots
* Heel the tree in again. To heel in, press the soil down around the roots with the heel of the foot. This will ensure root to soil contact.

When the tree is planted in wet soil, the disturbed soil will dry out and shrink. The soil then becomes loose. Then the roots are not in sufficient contact with the soil to take up sufficient moisture.

April 5, 2009

Watering Vegetables

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — TopVeg @ 11:10 pm

The Science of Watering Vegetables
Watering the vegetable garden is not a simple task. Firstly the needs of the plant must be considered. Then the soil properties must be understood.
1. The plant needs:
a. Water
*Water enters the plant at the roots, & is sucked up to the top of the plant.
The water is used:

    *  by every cell in the plant for respiration.
    *  to convert sunlight into food.
    *  for transpiration – when water evaporates through the leaves & is lost.

Transpiration (& water loss) increases:

    * in hot weather because water evaporates faster at high temperatures. The plant does compensate by closing the stomata (little holes through which the water is lost) – even so, more water is lost & the plant wilts.
    * in windy weather because the evaporated moisture is blown into the atmosphere, away from the plant, allowing more water to evaporate & fill the space. This is rather like washing drying quicker on a windy day.

*b. Oxygen
Oxygen is used by every cell in the plant for respiration.
Oxygen enters the plant through the leaves & also through the roots.
The roots take oxygen from the air spaces in the soil. If soil is waterlogged, it is full of water and all the air including oxygen has been squeezed out. So the roots & then the whole plant will die.

*2. Soil properties
Soil is made up of lots of tiny mineral particles which hang together to make crumbs.

� Water clings to the soil particles, like drops hanging on a glass window.

� In the gaps, between the water coated particles, are pockets of air.

The plant roots wiggle between the crumbs and take up the water and oxygen. The water droplet, or film, around the soil will get thinner as the plant takes up the water, unless more water is added to the soil by rain or irrigation.

There are different textures of soil.
*Clay soil is made up of very tiny particles which cling together.

� It is hard to penetrate & heavy. If it is trodden down it will squash into an even more impenetratable lump.

� There will be very few spaces for air, & water will not move through it quickly

*Sandy soil is made up of large particles.

� It is light, with lots of air spaces & water rushes through it.

� Sandy soil will dry out quickly, because the large particles cannot hold onto much water.

*The gardener has to get to know how the soil in their garden relates to water .

� Every garden has its own soil & the gardener has to work with it.

    * Is it clay or sand, or what combination of the two?
    * How does the garden soil look when it is dry?
    * How does the garden soil feel when it is dry?

� Clay soil often feels cold & damp, even though it is dry.

� Sandy soil looks dry, when it is actually quite damp.       Dig down a few inches with your hands, feel the soil and look at  it.

� Then dig down with a spade to a foot.

� Study the soil, & the surrounding plants.

�  Do the plants look happy, or are they thirsty.  The plants will reflect the water available in the soil.

� It takes time for the gardener to get to know their own soil characteristics.

To understand the best way to water the vegetable garden, firstly the needs of the plant must be considered, then the soil properties must be understood.

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